I'm not sure why Anthony Minghella's
The Talented Mr. Ripley hasn't become more iconic, both in terms of film making and fashion. This 1999 adaptation (there was an earlier French version from 1960 titled
Plein Soleil starring Alain Delon) of Patricia Highsmith's 1955 novel of the same name captures the beautiful mix of American prep and southern Italian style.
The film is set in 1950s, but the clothes can provide summer inspiration year after year. Not to mention that the said clothes are on what may possibly be the best looking cast ever: Matt Damon (in the title role), Jude Law (at his best), Gwyneth Paltrow and Cate Blanchett. A costume designer's dream, I would think. The design was brilliantly executed by Anne Roth (google her, she is fabulous!), a long-time Anthony Minghella collaborator and an Academy Award winner (The English Patient).
All the characters are, in a Hitchcockian manner, equally unlikable and likable. Jude Law (that face!) and Gwyneth Paltrow play Dickie Greenleaf and Marge Sherwood, a wealthy WASP-y couple, the types strolling comfortably through a life of leisure and luxury. On the other hand, Matt Damon's Tom Ripley is a man living in pretense of said life, insinuating himself into their lives and developing an unhealthy infatuation with Dickie (not that I blame him).
This film is all about menswear, and Dickie's clothing in particular. He comes from an old money East Coast family, a Princeton graduate and a free-spirited brat. Dickie is definitely someone that would have inspired the book
Take Ivy. His summer wardrobe could be a how-to-guide from day to night. When we, and Tom, first meet him, he sports some pretty wicked patterned swim trunks. His summer wardrobe consists of knitted polo shirts, an array of colourful Bermuda shorts, white slacks, and linen blazers.
Tom, rocking a slightly more boy-next-door look, enjoys the styling of gingham shirts, khakis and corduroy blazers. Although incredibly handsome in his own right, Tom always feels inadequate in comparison to Dickie -- brilliant casting on the part of Minghella.
Another brilliant casting move is Gwyneth Paltrow as a Grace Kelly-esque all-American young intellectual. Unlike Dickie, she is actually working on a book in Italy. She's a fan of short sleeve white dress shirts tied at the waist, paired with mid-length summery skirts -- quite girlish and a bit flirty.
Later as her love life shatters into pieces, she adopts a darker Hitchcockian blond look, complete with a leopard print coat (like, the most beautiful leopard print coat ever!) and a cigarette.
Cate Blanchett's Meredith Logue is a supporting, but very crucial, character, as a wealthy heiress that befriends Tom. For the ten minutes she is on the screen, she sizzles in cashmere, fur and bright red lipstick, never letting you forget that she will return in the most inopportune moments in Tom's life.
So much of the film's storytelling is in the clothing. Dickie wears his clothes with ridiculous amounts of confidence, a trait Tom lacks. Tom is the character who wears the simplest, most generic, non-descript attire, perhaps mimicking his devoid personality. It lets him blend in and hide behind all the flashy glamorous characters he so longs to become, hoping for an acceptance.
I was trying not to spoil it for you, in case you haven't seen it. But if you have, what did you think?